Trip to Okayama, Japan #1

Trip to Okayama, Japan #1

This summer, I was privileged to visit some of Japan's most skilled artisans, immersing myself in their creative worlds. Thank you for understanding that the website was paused during my stay in Japan. 

My first stop was Okayama, home to the talented potter Manabu Suehiro. The journey from Tokyo to Okayama was smooth and peaceful, just under four hours by Shinkansen. I came prepared with a bento, which made the ride all the more enjoyable. Arriving at Okayama Station felt like home; the large department stores and bustling mall gave the city an air of Tokyo. However, it didn’t take long before the scenery began to shift.

Just 30 minutes by car outside the city, the rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see, with plump, golden grains ready for harvest. The landscape, dotted with small, lush mountains thick with greenery, felt like stepping into Totoro’s backyard—a natural beauty that always takes my breath away.

History of Sueki ware to Bizen ware

After about an hour, I arrived at the Samukaze Pottery Center, where I had the pleasure of meeting Suehiro-san. He warmly welcomed me and shared a wealth of knowledge about the long history of pottery in the region, stretching back to the Heian period (794 - 1180). Although I had studied this era in school, hearing about it through the lens of the everyday objects people used brought a new depth to my understanding. Through the story of the humble pottery, I could almost glimpse the lives of ancient Japanese people.

One fascinating thing Suehiro-san explained is that the distinctive color of Sue ware comes from the reduction firing process, which occurs when oxygen is restricted in the kiln. In ancient times, artisans packed the kilns as tightly as possible to produce as many pieces as they had for offerings to the capital in Nara. Over time, as techniques advanced, potters mastered the art of reduction firing, giving birth to the stunning flame-colored hues that define the now world-famous Bizen pottery. Okayama, known as the "Land of Fire," is deeply connected to this tradition.

What struck me most was hearing about the movement among younger artisans, led by Suehiro-san, to revive Sue ware, the precursor to Bizen pottery. It’s an inspiring project, a return to the roots of this ancient craft, yet with a fresh, modern sensibility.

 

Sleepless with Anagama Kilns

Across from the Samukaze Pottery Center is Suehiro-san’s workshop, where he has built everything by hand—from small anagama kilns to large, traditional climbing kilns. When firing his pieces, he tends to the flames constantly, often for five days to a week. Yet, only about half of what he fires makes it out into the world as finished works, sometimes even less. The unpredictable nature of the process is a testament to the dedication and patience required in this craft. 

"It's just so interesting"

Suehiro-san was not the difficult, brooding artist I had generally imagined. Instead, he exuded a quiet, flexible passion for creating, a feeling that has guided him since he began his craft at 18. When I asked him if he ever had doubts about continuing as a potter, he casually replied, “Doubts? Hmm, no, not really. It’s just so interesting.” He explained how fascinating it is to explore how Sue ware was made in ancient times, how to replicate those ancient techniques today, and what it would take to push modern methods even further. I am eager to see how Suehiro-san’s sense of "interesting" will continue to evolve.
Kyoko
Posted on October 25, 2024
Kyoko
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